Nürnberg

I went to Nürnberg {known to us Americans as Nuremburg} because of the Nürnberg trials. That was all I knew of the city. I went with Alex and Ian, and the latter was willing to serve as tour guide. Very helpful since I'd appeared in this city with very little plan.

Congress Hall across the lake

Our first stop was the Nazi Party grounds. They are outside the city and cover several acres of land. There is the great Congress Hall, which was the first building built in a planned complex that was never completed. The hall currently stands, housing both Nazi museum and the Nürnberg symphony. I still have a hard time understanding why they let it stand. According to Ian, the minds behind the architecture were very aware of the importance of ruins, of their significance long after their empires have diminished. For whatever reason, it has been kept long after the regime has ended. And ruins remain.

Zeppelin Fields, facing the stage from the side,
the fields are to the right

We walked around the lake to the Zeppelinfield {so named before Hitler ever came onto the scene}. It is a rectangular field with bleachers on every side. The stage is designed off an altar {pagan, contrary to Alex's previous claim} and is made of stone bleachers with a door at the back. A giant swastika used to hang above the door, but it was ceremoniously blown up when the Americans arrived. During the annual Nazi party rally, especially during the war, anti-aircraft floodlights would surround the field and point upwards, creating an intimidating Cathedral of Light.

Now, graffiti covers the door and flowers poke through the cracks in the steps. Bands come and play there. A family of swans reside in the lake, and people jog around it for exercise. All in the shadow of ruins.

view from the castle walls

After the Party Grounds, we headed to town. If I had to describe it in one word, I would choose “old.” Not because it is decrepit or in ruins or lacking in modern amenities, but because it is simply true. There is a castle there. And it is not like Würzburg, where the castle is “over there,” a short walk from the city. No. This castle is in the city. The market—now home to a host of shops, including Starbucks—sits right up against it like markets of old. Nothing has changed. You walk from city to castle without blinking. You brush your fingertips against the city wall—tall and deep and long—while sidestepping for Audis and BMWs. This was my impression of the Aldstadt—the Old City.

Palace of Justice

Once we'd walked along the wall, we made up our minds to go to the Palace of Justice, infamous home of Courtroom 600 where Nazi leaders faced prosecution. We walked a long way to get there—every way we take is longer than it should be, due to getting lost—but I was not disappointed, even though we were too late to merit a tour. The building is large and new, compared to the castle, at least. The walls are flat, and there are plenty of solemn carvings and statues that stand for justice. A sobering place, and a fitting end to our day.